Who was the woman who ruled Egypt as a king, and why did her successor try to erase her? At Hatshepsut Temple, three terraces rise from the Theban cliffs to tell the story in stone. Here is what to look for, and how to enjoy it before the heat arrives.
The Pharaoh Whose Face Was Chiselled Off the Walls
Hatshepsut ruled Egypt for about two decades, around 1479 to 1458 BCE, and she did it as a full king. She wore the ceremonial beard and kilt, and she built this temple as her monument for eternity.
After her death, her stepson Thutmose III had many of her images hacked from the walls. Look closely and you will spot the smoothed-out gaps where her face once stood.
Which Terrace Should You Not Miss?
If you only have an hour, head straight to the middle terrace. It holds the best reliefs in the whole complex.
| Terrace | What to look for |
|---|---|
| Lower | The grand forecourt and ramps, once lined with incense trees |
| Middle | Punt reliefs, the Birth Colonnade and the chapels of Anubis and Hathor |
| Upper | Osiris-style statues and the sanctuary cut into the cliff |
Egypt’s First Recorded Shopping Trip: The Punt Reliefs
Around her ninth year, Hatshepsut sent five ships to the land of Punt. They came home loaded with myrrh trees, gold, ebony and leopard skins.
The scenes on the middle terrace show the whole voyage. You can see the ships, the fish-filled sea and the portly queen of Punt, Ati. It is the oldest trade expedition Egypt recorded in such detail.
Ready to read these walls with an expert beside you? Explore our Luxor day tours and see the West Bank at the best hour.
The Hathor Chapel: A Cow Goddess in the Cliff
On the southern side of the middle terrace, columns topped with the cow-eared face of Hathor frame her chapel. She was the goddess of music, love and the western desert.
Hatshepsut claimed Hathor as her divine mother. Pause here: traces of original paint still cling to the carvings, and the cliff behind makes the light dramatic.
The Neighbour and the Steward Behind the Design
Next door stands the older temple of Mentuhotep II, built around 2000 BCE. Its terraces inspired Hatshepsut’s architects, and most scholars credit her steward Senenmut as the mind behind the plan.
Senenmut rose from a modest family to become her most trusted official. He even had tombs prepared beneath the temple forecourt, a privilege almost unheard of for a courtier.
Today the Polish-Egyptian conservation mission continues to restore the temple, which is why the pale limestone looks so crisp.
Don’t Stop at the Cliffs: Her Obelisk at Karnak
Hatshepsut’s legacy continues across the river. Her red granite obelisk at Karnak Temple rises nearly 30 metres, the tallest still standing in Egypt.
Planning Your Visit at a Glance
| Detail | What to know |
|---|---|
| Location | Deir el-Bahari, Luxor West Bank |
| Time needed | About 60 to 90 minutes |
| Best light | Early morning, when sun hits the colonnades head-on |
| Shade | Almost none, so bring a hat and water |
| Pairs well with | Valley of the Kings, ten minutes away, and Medinet Habu |
- Bring a hat and sunscreen. Shade is rare on the terraces.
- Wear shoes with grip for the polished ramps.
- Carry water, and keep your camera ready for the early light.
Guide’s tip: a small tram carries visitors from the entrance to the foot of the temple. Take it up, then walk the ramps slowly on the way back.
Hatshepsut Temple: Questions Travellers Actually Ask
Did Hatshepsut really wear a false beard?
Yes. Statues and reliefs show her with the royal beard and kilt, a visual way to prove she was a legitimate king rather than a regent.
Why are so many faces missing on the walls?
Her images were attacked after her death, most likely under Thutmose III. Later centuries added more damage, so many figures are only partly intact.
Are the ramps at Hatshepsut Temple hard on older visitors?
The ramps are long and gentle, and a tram covers the distance from the entrance. The upper terrace needs stairs, so allow extra time and shade breaks.
Can I see Hatshepsut Temple after a sunrise balloon ride?
Yes. Balloon flights land around breakfast time, leaving you plenty of time to reach the temple before the crowds. See our Luxor hot air balloon guide.
Your Hatshepsut Temple Morning, Sorted
Go early, take the middle terrace slowly and look for the places where her name was scratched out. The story is far more human than the stone suggests. Message El Sultan Travel on WhatsApp and we will build your West Bank day.
